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New Plymouth District Council.

Taranaki Stories 
Natural World - Opunake - the place of the prow of the canoe  
A Wild and Wicked Childhood - the Ollivers of Opunake BeachMurder at Te NamuBack to list

By Rhonda Bartle

 

The Olliver Clan

The Olliver family en masse around 1950: Image Puke Ariki Collection P.2.2095, LN 5220.

 

World famous in Opunake

The names of people are often synonymous with where they live, and you can't talk of Opunake without mention of the Olliver clan. 

 

Twelve Olliver children - the offspring of Hilton (Skelly) and Mabel - were born a year or two apart between the years of 1916 and 1936. 

 

They were destined to become the first permanent dwellers at Opunake Beach after what was meant to be a two week holiday turned into two decades by the sea.



Hilton and Mabel Olliver

Hilton George and Mabel Rose raised a warm and wonderful clan of kids on Opunake Beach. Image Puke Ariki Collection P.2.3252, LN5222.

A bad break turns out to be a blessing

When Skelly Olliver returned from World War I he was hit by the terrible 'flu of 1918.  Recovery took a long time, but once he was on his feet again he was hired on as manager of the Riverlea general store.

 

In 1921, he and Mabel decided to head to Opunake for a fortnight's break before starting a new position at the Cape Egmont store at Pungarehu. 

 

But an accident resulting in a badly broken leg cost him the job and the family stayed put.

 

Once his leg was healed, Skelly took a job with the power board while Mabel raised their growing tribe of kids down on the sand. 

 

Today, nine of those twelve survive and they make a point of organising regular get-togethers to talk of old times.

 

Some of the Olliver family today

Still Opunake Ollivers: From left Joan, Colin, Edna, Bill, Joanie, Betty and Owen.

 

Pikelets and paua fritters

Today they're gathered at Joan Jefferies, the eldest, who still lives beside the ocean in her Dieffenbach Street home. 

 

There are pikelets, cream and jam on the menu as well as a plate of Bill Olliver's famous paua fritters.



Joan Jefferies, nee Olliver

Joan, the eldest (and possibly the liveliest) of the Olliver clan, turns 90 in 2006.

Bill, known as the fisherman, has been gathering kaimoana from the Opunake coastline since he was a boy. 

 

'I used to go off, rod over my shoulder and a little billy of worms.  Used to go round to Butterfish Pond.  Remember it plain as day.'

 

Around the table are Joan, sister Betty Duckett, and brothers Bill, Colin and Owen.

 

Joan's daughter Joanie pours the tea and Colin's wife Edna arrives before it grows cold.

 

'Here,' they all say.  'Have a fritter.'



Bill and Colin Olliver

Pikelets and paua fritters: Bill tucks into morning tea while Colin tells the yarns.

An army of Ollivers now

They're a warm, colourful lot, the Ollivers, full of bonhomie and good humour, which they'll tell you is down to a wonderful childhood that gave them health, happiness and freedom - and probably far more adventures than even their parents knew about.

 

Every two years, they call whanau together from far and wide to celebrate family and rejoice in such fond beginnings. 

 

These days, it's almost impossible to keep track of them all: they're known as the Olliver army now.



Owen Olliver

Owen Olliver enjoys the stories on the menu.

Tea and watery tales

Joan, who was only four when she arrived at the beach, vividly remembers her first view from the top of the cliff. 

 

'We stopped by the thick boxthorn and a big gun (which she thinks was probably from the Harriet) and Mum and Dad said, 'Well have lunch and then we'll go to the beach.  I could hear the sea and it was fascinating.  I can still hear the sea.'

 

A converted boatshed, which was added to over the years, made an interesting home for the ever-increasing family. 

 

'In the winter the walls were covered in newspaper to cover the cracks but in the summer it didn't matter,' Betty says. 



Betty Olliver

Betty Duckett smiles over unforgotten memories

And it wasn't unusual for high tides to wash through the house.  'Yes, I remember lying in bed - we had sacks on timber for beds - and watching the water wash under the beds,' says Bill.

 

Joan smiles.  'In those days, you dropped your clothes on the floor because there was nowhere else to put them and you'd hear the water hit the house and there would be your knickers, washing around the floor!'

 

Kerosene tins, a copper and a cow

In the earliest days, water was collected in kerosene tins from a spring in the side of the cliff and hot water boiled in a copper in the yard.



The first four Olliver children

The first four Ollivers: Doss, Ngaia, Joan and Betty

An old boat propped upside down and wrapped in wire netting made an excellent house for the chooks.  The Olliver kids spent many hours lying up on top on the warm wood.

 

A house cow provided milk and turns were taken to lead it to and from the grass around the lake. 

 

Pigs were slaughtered and scraped with the sharp edge of a tobacco tin.

 

And every day a pound of butter was collected from Morris's store. 'I remember coming home for lunch on a cold day and you'd get to the top of the cliff and sniff: Pancakes!' Joan says.

 

Power to the people

At the beginning there was no electricity until Skelly, who knew in advance when the power was to be turned off, decided to do something about it.

 

'When Dad was with the power board,' Bill says, 'we had the washhouse outside the bathroom and one day Dad connected the power to the house straight off the pole.  The whole time we were there, we had free power!'

 

On Opunake Beach

On the sand: An undated photo of Hilton and Mabel with the first of their 12 children. Image Puke Ariki Collection P.2.3251, LN 5221.

 

Long drops and short drops

But it's tales of a non-existent sewage system that make old eyes twinkle now.  The long drop sat around the corner from the house and emptying it was usually done under cover of night.

 

Colin:  'We used to sit the tins in the wheelbarrow and take them to the tailrace at the south end of the beach to empty.  One night Roy and I - it was our turn - were pushing thw wheelbarrow and it kept going eek, eek, eek. It was making a hell of a noise.  We laughed so much we tipped the barrow over.  It took about six loads to get it all into the tail race!'

 

Old Charlie Cameron, the town's night-watchman, once tipped his whole truck over in the sand with a full load on. 

 

'He used to collect all the tins in town and he'd tip it all out in the tail race.  He turned a bit sharp by our place one night and tipped the whole lot onto the beach.'

Opunake Beach from the top of the cliff around 1915, perhaps with an Olliver child in the foreground.

 

Safer by the dozen

With safety in numbers, the Olliver clan roamed Opunake beach at will, until not a single rock or boulder went unexplored. 

 

They played hide-and-seek in the swamp where they built huts and forts. Sometimes they fried bird's eggs up in the gorse nearer town.

 

But when it came to swimming, they stuck by the rules.  'Mum was a tiger for rules. We were pretty well schooled up. Mum would come down when people swam in the wrong place and tell them not to swim there, tell them it was dangerous. 

 

'One fellow said, 'I know what I'm doing.'  And he drowned.  But we'd had it instilled in us from the start.  Don't ever swim by the tail race.  And we never did.'

 

Entertainment and excitement

Talk around the table turns to the excitment of the circus coming to town or of going to the occasional film at Everybody's Theatre. 

 

Colins spins a yarn about tripping over something on the way home in the dark.

 

'It was during the war. Black Out. No house lights. No street lights. We came out of the pictures, a war film, some creepy Japanese thing and we were walking up the street.  It was all metal and our feet would go crunch, crunch, which made it sound like some bugger was chasing you.

 

'We went onto the grass so we didn't make any noise and suddenly we fell over something breathing heavily in the dark. We were home in two seconds flat. Panting on the verandah, we realised it must have been a cow asleep on the grass verge.'

 

Everybody's Theatre Opunake

Everybody's Theatre as it looks today.  Built between 1912 and 1914, it was orginally Thorpe and Callahan's General Store.  The building was converted into a theatre in the 1920s and later bought by local residents as a community asset.  These days it's run by volunteers.

 

A load of old bull

The memories continue to flow - of the day no one went to school because Sam Peter's bull escaped from its paddock on Longfellow Road and how Sam Feaver, vet, chemist and valued photographer, rode up on his horse to help look for it.

 

'They tried everything.  They called dogs.  It ripped open the horse.  It was a wild one, that bull.'

 

There was the time Aunt Daisy visited Opunake in the wake of her popular radio show. 

 

'You'd have thought it was the Queen,' Owen says.  'They lifted her up on the back of the bus and she couldn't get off, she was that small.'



Old Wharf in Opunake Bay
The old wharf in Opunake Bay which was later dismantled. 

They still laugh over the time they locked brother Jack in a locker at the wharf and set it alight. 

 

'There was all this straw and stuff and we set fire to it and there's poor Jack, nearly keeled over inside!'

 

Progress, pavilions and pocket money

The Olliver kids watched with interest as the beach pavilion was built in 1915 - followed by a second one in 1920 after the first was destroyed by fire.

 

'There used to be a light by it and we'd go down at nights and play under it,' Betty says.

 

Bill remembers it for different reasons.  'When the beach began to progress, when they built the bathing sheds, we made a small fortune. 



Pavilion today
The second Pavilion, built in 1920 after the first one burned down the year before.

'People would come down to get dressed and the money would fall down between the slats.  Every day, first thing in the morning, we'd go down and turn the slats over and pick up the money off the concrete floor.

 

'One day, I found half-a-crown by the concrete wall by the surf club.  I gave it to mum and asked for a penny for lollies.  It made my day.'

 

Walking along the beach after a stiff wind also reaped rewards.  'There would be the money sitting on top,' Betty says.

 

Later, they made money by collecting stray golf-balls that had been accidentally whacked over the cliff - and selling them back to the golfers who had lost them.

 

Opunake Beach 2005

Opunake Beach as it is today, looking south to north.

 

A gentle realisation

Today, the children of Skelly and Mabel know how hard it must have been for their parents to make ends meet and yet they don't feel deprived in any way.  They were the lucky ones, they reckon.

 

'You were hard.  You were brought up hard,' Bill says.  'But if I had my way, I wouldn't turn anything back.  I've had such fun in my life.  The good things outweigh the bad if you think long enough.'

 

'Hear, hear,' the rest of them say. 

 

Pass the paua fritters, Uncle Bill, and let's have another cup of tea.

 

Olliver descendents at their reunion in 2005

Come rain or shine: Every second Easter descendants of Skelly and Mabel gather at Opunake Beach and march on the town. 



 




Published 27 April 2005

 

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LIBRARY RESOURCES

Earlier days on the coast : local folk stories /
by Harvey, M. K. (Muriel Kate), Egmont Public Library. Friends, Egmont Public Library, Egmont Community Arts Council, South Taranaki District Council. Opunake Service Centre

 

More earlier days on the coast : more local folk stories /
by Egmont Public Library. Friends

 

ARCHIVES
Check out the Feaver collection of early Opunake photographs in the TRC at Puke Ariki

 

WEBLINKS

Puke Ariki is not responsible for the content of these external websites.

 

Opunake -Surf Highway 45 - Taranaki - New Zealand

 

Opunake. Home of world famous surf.

 


RELATED TARANAKI STORIES

In Focus: Samuel Feaver, coastal photographer

 

Yeps Have Much In Store For Opunake

 

A Sawmill on Arawhata Road

 

The Harriet Incident


Major von Tempsky - Soldier of Fortune

 

Graham Mourie - a Man of Conscience

 

Lord Worsley Runs Into Troubled Times

 

Lizzie Bell Wrecks on Rugged Rocks


PLACES TO VISIT

Opunake lies 40 minutes south of New Plymouth.  Wander around the town, admire the murals and old shop facades then head towards the beach.  See if you can find the old totara shipping marker at the top of the cliff.  Visit the lookout to Middleton's Bay and the cemetery on the way back.  Perhaps, if you're lucky, the mountain will stick its head out of the clouds.  Enjoy the view.



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